Proper face contouring: a step-by-step guide for beginners. Face contouring cosmetics
Previously, face contouring techniques were available only to professional makeup artists. We viewed star photos in glossy magazines and admired the wonders of modern plastic surgery. But, as it turned out, not all celebrities resort to the services of plastic surgeons, but nobody renounces the services of a good makeup artist. Moreover, in just an hour, without pain and rehabilitation, one can get high cheekbones, a chiseled nose and full lips.
Thanks to glossy publications and video blogs, face contouring has become available to everyone. A little practice, patience, brushes and cosmetics - and even a beginner can master the magic of makeup. Let us take a closer look at what contouring is, what it is for, and how to do it yourself.
What is contouring
Face contouring, or sculpting, is a technique of applying means of two different shades in order to give a face a relief, as well as to correct its features. Here everything works the same way as in art: what needs to be done more or put to the fore, we make it brighter, alienate and reduce by darkening.
In order to master this technique, you need to study your face well. Determine what shape it has and what features require a slight correction, since the contouring of a round face is different from the contouring triangular or elongated. You will also need products for sculpture, they can be dry or cream, choose them based on skin type and the desired result. And of course, as a true artist, you will need tools - brushes and sponges, without which you can’t make a good contouring of the face. Step-by-step instructions for mastering this make-up technique will be presented below.
How to prepare a face
Before you apply makeup, you need to properly prepare the skin: clean and moisturize. If the skin is very dry and dehydrated, then you can first apply a moisturizing mask, otherwise the tone foundation will emphasize peeling and fine wrinkles.If the dermis is oily, then after the ritual of cleansing you need to apply a matting moisturizer. So make-up is not "float", and will be neat and persistent.
If the skin texture is uneven, there are enlarged pores or acne marks, then you can apply a primer or base for makeup. This tool evens out the relief, allowing the foundation to lie flat, without blemishes, and also increases its durability.
Now we put a tonal basis on the whole face. This can be done with finger pads, a brush or a beauty blender. The latter will make the coating thin and light, the first two methods will give a more dense layer. The problem areas - redness, dark circles under the eyes, acne - need to be applied concealer or proofreader.
After applying the tonal foundation, the person loses volume, looks flat and unnatural. Therefore, even if you do not want to “sculpture” the face, a droplet of bronzer under the cheekbones, a highlighter under the eyebrow and blush on the “apples” of the cheeks will not interfere. So the skin will get a fresh rested look and natural relief.
What kind of makeup is needed to contour the face? Based on the type of skin, choose the appropriate products. As a rule, these are either dry textures (bronzers, dry highlighters),or cream sticks and special tools for sculpting, produced in several shades for each color type.
Dry textures are lighter, they give a natural effect, suitable for everyday wear. But it is important not to be mistaken with the choice of shades. Bronzer for darkening should be darker than your skin tone no more than one and a half tones. Otherwise, you risk getting rough sharp features or just dark spots and stripes. Dark bronzers can be used only by owners of dark-skinned skin. The undertone of the contouring means should be gray, resembling a natural shadow, but not orange or brick. The highlighter can be with a cold (silver) or warm (golden) subtone. He simply must be in harmony with the natural color of the skin and the general color type. If you are the owner of light so-called porcelain skin, then a highlighter with silver pieces of a shimmer, or with a tanned olive one, with gold or bronze, is ideal for you.
Dry contouring is performed by special products, usually assembled into palettes of two or more shades.In texture, they resemble compact powder or dry blush.
Suitable for dry contouring:
- Palette Sculpting Kit by Make Up For Ever. It is represented by only two shades, with its help it is very easy to make contouring the face. For beginners, this palette is ideal. The texture is very light, due to which the product is easily shaded, leaving no streaks and dark spots.
- Contour Kit by Smashbox. The palette contains three shades, as well as a convenient bevelled brush, with which it is very convenient to contour the face. Step-by-step instructions for applying shades are attached, it is very easy to understand how to use each color to adjust the facial features.
- Master Sculpt by Maybelline. The palette contains two shades - highlighter and bronzer of natural tone, as well as a flat brush for contouring the face.
Correction of creamy textures more dense and appropriate mainly at evening events or photo shoots. For everyday wear this makeup is too bright and sharp. Proofreaders can be assembled into palettes of several shades or be in the form of sticks. Remedies from the sticks can be immediately applied to the skin from the case, it is more convenient to apply cosmetics from the palette using brushes.
- Make-Up Atelier Paris.The palette of proofreaders contains six shades with a dense degree of coverage. This tool is ideal for photo shoots and video.
- Concealer palettes face contouring kit from MAC. Professional palette contains six shades for face correction. All colors can be mixed together to get the perfect shade. For greater durability, in the completion of the makeup, it is recommended to apply powder.
- Master Contour V-Shape Contouring Duo by Maybelline. Despite the creamy texture, this stick has a slight degree of coverage. The tool is perfectly shaded and has natural shades, ideal for contouring the face. For beginners - the best option, since they will not be difficult to apply and well shade the product.
What is needed for contouring the face in addition to cosmetics? Of course, the tools are brushes for applying and shading. What brushes are suitable for contouring?
- Kabuki. It is a round, tightly stuffed brush with a thick short nap. Ideal for applying dry bronzers and rouge.
- Brush with beveled cut. It is suitable for darkening the submandibular zone, the wings and the back of the nose. It is convenient both to apply and shade cosmetics.
- Beauty blender.This sponge has long been a leader among all tools for feathering correctors, tonal foundations, bronzers and other means. With it you can perfectly shade dark and light correctors, without spots, stripes and sharp borders.
Now a little about how to properly contour the face using the already described cosmetics. Consider several options for sculpting different ovals of the face, as well as the nose and lips.
Contouring round face
The contouring of a round face is designed to make his oval more elongated, and his cheekbones - more clear. To do this, apply a dark concealer on the sides of the lower jaw to visually narrow the face, under the cheekbones to make them clearer, and on the side of the forehead. The highlighter needs to “highlight” the middle of the chin, so it will stretch a bit, then apply the tool on the upper part of the cheekbones to lift them, and in the middle of the forehead.
If you need to correct the second chin, then apply and carefully blend the bronzer in the neck.
Contouring square face
Square face shape lacks smooth lines. To smooth the sharp corners of the lower jaw, you need to apply dark powder or a corrector on the sides of the chin.Using a brush to contour the face, it is necessary to emphasize the line of the cheekbones with sufficiently large triangles, and it is also important to darken and make the lateral parts of the forehead smoother. Light glare is set in the center of the chin and forehead, the cheekbones are “illuminated” with a long line from the temple to the wings of the nose.
Contouring triangular face
The triangular face has a narrow chin, which visually needs to be made a little wider in order to balance with the line of the forehead. To do this, we apply a light corrector on the sides of the lower jaw, and in the middle of the chin you need to apply a little dark corrector to smooth out its “sharpness”. The forehead needs to be done already, therefore we darken its side parts. We put a shadow on the subcellular space to give relief to the face.
Contouring elongated face
Contouring a face that has an elongated shape requires darkening of the chin and lateral parts of the lower jaw, as well as the upper part of the forehead. Bright accents set at the highest point of the cheekbones and the central part of the forehead.
Adjusting the shape of the nose with makeup is easy. In order to make the back of the nose, you need to hold two parallel straight lines with a dark corrector on the sides of the nose bridge, connecting them in the form of a semicircle at the tip. In the center of the back it is necessary to lay a thin line with a light-colored corrector.If you applied cream correctors, then blend the border with a beauty blender, and if dry, then hammer in the product with a kabuki brush.
To adjust the width of the nose, apply dark bronzing powder or concealer to the wings.
Putting a light flare, a little before reaching the tip of the nose, you can adjust its length.
To give the jaws volume, put a light highlight on the check mark above the upper lip. The contour will be clearer if you circle the lips with a light corrector (do not forget to shade the borders carefully). The glare set by the light-color corrector in the center will visually enlarge the mouth. And on top you can put light lipstick and a drop of gloss in the middle.
Doing sculpture, do not forget that his goal is to slightly adjust the facial features, and not completely change it. Cosmetics help us look fresher, younger, and should not work against us.